How to Sew Silk Jersey
One of my favorite fabrics to sew with is silk jersey knit. If you haven't sewn with silk jersey before and are nervous about it, you've come to the right place!
Much of my fashion line at EricaWaddell.com features it, which is why I carry a lot of it in the fabric inventory at Ellesby.
UNDERSTANDING SILK JERSEY
First, what is silk jersey? Jersey refers to a fine knit. Think of a t-shirt. Silk is just the material used, but it is similar to a tee in terms of stretch and hand.
The knit pattern allows it to stretch naturally in a two-way (width-wise from selvage to selvage) manner but not lengthwise. There is also no elastic, unless otherwise indicated in the contents section of the fabric listing, so it doesn't normally stretch more than about 15%. As a result, it is a great choice for items that are semi-fitted without closure / pullover or fitted with closure.
Sewing with silk jersey is a lot different from other jerseys. I've worked with many - heavier wool jersey, cotton jersey, various rayon jerseys, polyester jersey, and blends. Compared to those, silk jersey tends to be much lighter and quicker to run - even the heavier double knits and higher denier weight silk jersey. It is also more expensive than most of the other forms of jersey. So I have to take more precautions when sewing it.
Despite these issues, it is still a great fabric. Silk jersey is incredibly soft and breathable. It has a beautiful luster with a slinky drape that makes it stand out as lingerie, accessories, and outer garments. It stays cool in the summer and warm in the winter as it tends to help maintain consistent body temperature.
Now that you are thoroughly familiar with the material, let's get sewing!
SEWING WITH SILK JERSEY
Here are my pro tips for sewing silk jersey:
PROJECT PREPARATION
The fabric can shrink about 5%, so pre-treat as the care instructions suggest below.
Don't cut until you're ready to sew! Silk jersey runs very easily like pantyhose.
To avoid runs during wear and tear of the garment, find opportunities to reinforce your stitching, especially around curves and v-necks. Use stretch interfacing or zig zag / lingerie stitches around these vulnerabilities.
Minimize use of pins to avoid it from getting caught inadvertently on things.
MACHINE SEWING
Use a narrow (80 gauge) needle.
A ballpoint needle isn't necessary.
Start your stitch with the fabric about an inch under the presser foot and backstitch slowly. This will help to avoid getting the material caught in the feed dogs, possibly snagging.
Keep a slow speed to avoid the fabric getting caught in the feed dogs until you get used to sewing with the material
I do not recommend a stretch stitch because it involves a backstitch every third stitch and can cause it to get into the feed dogs
Regular length stitches are fine for a sewing machine.
If you use a serger, the overcast stitch length should be slightly shorter than normal.
Don't pull too hard on the fabric as you work it through the machine.
FINISHING
Rolled hems work great if you have a serger. Otherwise, a regular fold hem works fine.
Since the material is slinky and can stretch out of place, heavy trims should be supported with reinforcement.
Avoid overstretching - I would recommend a separate material like fold-over elastic, bias tape, or ribbing for things like the neckline.
CARE
Silk jersey should be hand washed with warm water and mild soap. Line dry or dry flat. It washes very quickly and dries within about two hours on a sunny day with a light breeze.
Use an iron on silk setting.
The fabric can shrink about 5% when hand washed and can shrink considerably if machine washed and dried.
Machine wash or dry should be avoided to the extent possible, due to both shrinking and snagging.
Test colors for fading and bleeding.
Keep fabric away from items that can cause snags and avoid overstretching.
Runs can be mitigated by clear nail polish applied to the extent of the run. If you do snag the fabric, use a pin to pull the snag to the wrong side of the garment to avoid additional pulls.
The big point? Silk jersey knit is a delicate fabric, but the results are beautiful!
If you're ready to order some silk jersey, check out our great deals here. Do you need anything else to complete your project - notions, thread, trims, etc.? Feel free to tell us on the contact page!
Have fun on your project!EndFragment
